Lake Bolsena and Lake Vico: Slow Days on Tuscia's Volcanic Lakes
These are affiliate links: we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Disclosure.
Tuscia’s two great lakes fill the craters of ancient volcanoes. Lake Bolsena, in the north, is wide and luminous, ringed by small towns, with two islands. Lake Vico, in the Cimini hills, is smaller, higher and wilder, surrounded by beech and chestnut woods inside a nature reserve. Both are perfect places to slow down: swim, walk, eat lake fish and watch the sunset.
Lake Bolsena
The basics
Lake Bolsena is commonly described as the largest volcanic lake in Europe. It lies in the Vulsini volcanic complex, and its water is known for being clean and clear; in summer it’s a popular swimming spot for Italian families, yet it never feels like a seaside resort. Its two islands, Bisentina and Martana, are privately owned.
Check before you go: boat trips around the lake and to the islands run mostly in the warm season; access to Bisentina is by guided visit only on certain dates. Ask at the lakeside piers or local tourist offices.
The lake towns
- Bolsena: the main town, with a medieval upper quarter crowned by the Rocca Monaldeschi della Cervara (a castle housing a museum) and the Basilica of Santa Cristina. Bolsena is associated with the Miracle of Bolsena (1263), in which a host is said to have bled during mass; the event is linked to the institution of the feast of Corpus Domini, and Raphael painted it in the Vatican. Bolsena also has a lakefront promenade and beaches.
- Montefiascone: on the crater rim above the south-east shore, with the great dome of the cathedral of Santa Margherita visible from afar and panoramic views over the lake. It is the home of the wine Est! Est!! Est!!! di Montefiascone — according to legend named after a servant of a travelling bishop who marked good inns with “Est” (“it is [here]”) and wrote it three times for the wine here. The Romanesque church of San Flaviano is just outside the centre.
- Capodimonte: on a small peninsula on the south shore, with a Farnese castle and a pleasant lakefront; boats leave from here for the islands in season.
- Marta: a fishing village where the lake’s outflow, the Marta river, begins. Fishing traditions are still alive here.
- Gradoli and Grotte di Castro: quieter towns on the north-west side, known for agriculture: Gradoli for its Aleatico wine and the fagiolo del Purgatorio bean, Grotte di Castro for its potatoes and lentils.
Things to do
- Swim from one of the many free beaches; the shore is often pebbly or volcanic sand, so water shoes help.
- Cycle or walk sections of the shore; the Via Francigena passes through Bolsena and Montefiascone on its way to Rome.
- Kayak or paddleboard, rented in summer at several beaches.
- Watch the sunset from Montefiascone or Capodimonte.
- Eat lake fish: coregone (whitefish), lattarini (small fried fish) and eel are traditional; look for them on menus in Marta, Capodimonte and Bolsena.
Getting there
By car: from Rome take the A1 to Orvieto and then the road to Bolsena (around 1h45), or the Via Cassia through Viterbo and Montefiascone.
By public transport: take the train to Orvieto and a Cotral bus to Bolsena, or the train to Viterbo and a Cotral bus to Montefiascone, Bolsena or Capodimonte. Services are reduced on Sundays and holidays — check Cotral timetables. A car makes exploring the lake much easier.
Where to stay
Bolsena is the most convenient base, with hotels, B&Bs and campsites. Montefiascone suits those who want views and easy access to Viterbo. For a quiet stay, look at agriturismi in the hills above the lake. See the “Plan it” box at the top for availability.
Lake Vico
The basics
Lake Vico sits at around 500 metres above sea level inside the crater of the Vico volcano, in the Monti Cimini. It is protected by the Riserva Naturale Lago di Vico, a regional nature reserve. The lake is almost completely surrounded by woods and hills, the highest being Monte Fogliano and the cone of Monte Venere, a small volcano that grew inside the crater. There is very little development: a few restaurants, campsites and agriturismi, and fields of hazelnut trees on the gentler slopes.
Things to do
- Walk the trails of the reserve; paths up Monte Fogliano and Monte Venere lead through ancient beech woods (the beech forest of Monte Cimino nearby, at Soriano nel Cimino, is part of a UNESCO World Heritage serial site of primeval beech forests).
- Birdwatch: the reed beds on the northern shore are a refuge for water birds.
- Swim: possible in some areas in summer; follow local signs.
- Picnic in the beech woods in autumn, when the colours are at their best and chestnuts fall in the woods.
Check before you go: rules on swimming, boating and access to some shore areas are set by the reserve and may change. Check with the reserve authority or local signs.
Getting there
Lake Vico is about 15–20 minutes by car from Viterbo and very close to Caprarola, so it pairs naturally with a visit to Palazzo Farnese — see our gardens and villas guide. Public transport to the lakeshore is very limited; a car or bike is best.
Bolsena or Vico?
| Lake Bolsena | Lake Vico | |
|---|---|---|
| Feel | Open, bright, lake towns | Wild, wooded, quiet |
| Best for | Swimming, towns, sunsets, food | Walking, nature, autumn colours |
| Services | Plenty | Few |
| Without a car | Possible (bus from Orvieto or Viterbo) | Difficult |
A slow lake weekend
- Day 1: Arrive in Montefiascone, walk to the cathedral viewpoint and San Flaviano; afternoon swim at Bolsena; dinner with lake fish; sunset from the shore.
- Day 2: Morning boat trip or kayak (in season); lunch in Marta or Capodimonte; drive south through Viterbo to Lake Vico for a late-afternoon walk; sleep in Viterbo and finish with a night soak at the hot springs.
In short
- Lake Bolsena: Europe’s largest volcanic lake; towns of Bolsena, Montefiascone, Capodimonte, Marta; swim, eat lake fish, cycle the Via Francigena.
- Lake Vico: a nature reserve in a crater, perfect for walking; combine with Caprarola.
- Public transport is possible for Bolsena but limited; a car makes both lakes easier.